Zucchini + turkey stuffed bell peppers with rosemary-garlic tomato sauce and fontina

Leave a comment February 9, 2016 urbankitchenapothecary

I don’t think anyone out there needs convincing that stuffed peppers are pretty much always a good idea. A classic for good reason. I rarely make the exact same recipe twice, but this rendition of a brown rice, turkey, and zucchini filling, smothered in a San Marzano tomato sauce spiked with rosemary and garlic, and topped with a bubbling brown lid of fontina and Parmigiano was so good that I wanted to share it here, if only to document the process for my own future reference.

Bell peppers are certainly not in season in the northeastern US right now, but our local market carries organic hot-house grown peppers that are meaty and sweet and hit the spot in bringing some much-needed summery brightness and bite to a cold February night. (Side note: if you’re looking for a more wintery vessel, acorn squash would be delicious with the very same filling.)

I used ground dark-meat turkey this time around by request of husband, but if you’d like to take your peppers for a vegetarian spin the headnote and recipe below include an option to substitute beans. Totally delicious, particularly with some fresh, toothsome heirlooms beans from the folks at Rancho Gordo.

As much as this is a recipe, for such a flexible dish it’s really only a jumping-off point for you to customize to suit your own tastes and preferences. The stuffing can be switched around in a hundred ways — work with what you have on hand and don’t stay tied to the ingredients list below. Fennel and mushrooms would be delicious. Crumbled tempeh in place of turkey or beans. Quinoa, millet, or bulgur as the grain would be fantastic. The sauce is flexible, too. Don’t have fresh rosemary on hand? Try fresh thyme, oregano, marjoram, or a blend. In summer fresh basil is splendid for a classic marinara.

Stuffed peppers with rosemary-garlic tomato sauce and fontina
Serves 6

If possible, purchase ground dark meat turkey, which is much more flavorful than ultra-low-fat ground white meat. I buy locally raised turkey from DiPaola Turkey Farms at my local NYC greenmarket, and it is the best-tasting turkey I have ever had. If you prefer to make this without animal protein, substitute freshly cooked or canned beans (see amounts in recipe below) for a delicious variation. A meaty bean variety such as cannellini, Rio Zape or Scarlet Runner is especially good in this recipe.

Depending on the size of your peppers, you may have leftover stuffing — it’s great in a frittata with grated fontina on top, and can also be made into a quick soup by combining with a few cups of flavorful broth and simmering for 20 minutes until the flavors have melded.

for stuffed peppers:
1 cup brown rice (I often use brown basmati); soaked for 6 to 8 hours in 3 cups water with 1 teaspoon salt

6 sweet bell peppers (red, orange, yellow), halved lengthwise, seeds and white ribs removed

extra virgin olive oil
1 large yellow onion, diced into 1/4-inch pieces (about 1 cup)
2 celery stalks, diced into 1/4 inch pieces (about 1/2 cup)
1 large carrot, peeled and diced into 1/4-inch pieces (about 1/2 cup)
1 jalapeno, chopped finely (including seeds)
1 garlic clove, peeled and minced
1 zucchini, trimmed and diced into 1/4 inch cubes (about 1-1/2 cups)
red chile flakes, to taste
1 pound ground turkey (preferably dark meat) OR 2-1/2 cups cooked beans OR one 13.5-ounce can of beans, drained and rinsed (see head note)
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder (if using ground turkey)
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper
4 ounces fontina, grated (about 1-1/2 cups)
1/2 cup grated Parmigiano Reggiano, Grana Padano, or Pecorino

for sauce:
extra virgin olive oil
2 garlic cloves, sliced
One 28-ounce can San Marzano plum tomatoes, crushed by hand
1 sprig fresh rosemary
red chile flakes, to taste
kosher salt
freshly ground black pepper

Bring rice to a boil with its soaking liquid. Reduce heat and simmer until tender but still slightly chewy and liquid has been absorbed, about 40 minutes. Transfer to a large mixing bowl.

Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large heavy-bottomed saucepan over medium heat. Add sliced garlic and cook for 2 to 3 minutes, until fragrant and just beginning to take on some golden color. Add tomatoes and their liquid, 1/2 teaspoon salt, rosemary, and a pinch of red chile flakes. Reduce heat to low and simmer uncovered until thick and saucy, about 45 minutes.  Remove rosemary stem. Add salt and black pepper if needed and finish with a glug of olive oil.

Preheat oven to 400 F. Grease one or two baking dishes large enough to hold peppers in a single layer. Arrange peppers cut-side up and drizzle with olive oil and sprinkle with a little salt.

Pour 3 tablespoons olive oil into a large skillet and turn heat to medium. Add onions and a pinch of salt and cook for 5 minutes, until starting to soften. Add celery, carrot, and jalapeño and cook 5 minutes more, then add garlic and zucchini and cook until vegetables are tender but not mushy, 5 to 8 minutes.

If using turkey:
Transfer vegetables to bowl with rice. Wipe pan and add 2 tablespoons olive oil. Heat over a medium flame until oil glistens, then add turkey, a pinch of salt, and garlic powder. Cook until turkey is cooked through, stirring occasionally, 8 to 10 minutes. Transfer to bowl with rice and vegetable mixture and stir to combine. Season with salt and black pepper to taste.

If using beans: 
Add beans to skillet with vegetables and cook until beans are heated through, 5 to 8 minutes. Transfer to bowl with rice, toss to combine, and season with salt and black pepper to taste.

Fill pepper halves with about 1/2 cup of the stuffing mixture, pressing gently to fill them completely and to create a slightly mounded top. Spoon tomato sauce over the peppers and around them in the pan. Sprinkle peppers with fontina and Parmigiano.

Bake until peppers are fork-tender and cheeses are browned and bubbling, 40 to 45 minutes. If the cheese browns before the peppers are tender, cover the pan loosely with aluminum foil for remaining cooking time. Rotate pan (or pans) halfway through.

To serve, ladle tomato sauce into warmed pasta or soup bowls (or in a serving dish) and nestle the stuffed peppers into the sauce. Serve hot.

Rosemary fig buckwheat biscotti with lemon zest, black pepper and almonds

Leave a comment February 4, 2016 urbankitchenapothecary

As I write this, I am dipping a rosemary fig buckwheat biscotti (or, technically, biscotto, the seldom-used singular) into my morning cappuccino. Not a bad way to wake up, and to my mind maybe the ideal way to start the day. A few light bites to hold me over between the first dog walk and my morning yoga practice, after which a more substantial breakfast with some protein will happen.

Biscotti — the literal translation is “twice-cooked” — are those Italian biscuits baked first as a single loaf or log and then sliced and baked again until golden and crunchy. Although some people are put off by the double-baking element, I posit that biscotti are among the easiest cookies to make — and absolutely the most perfect cookie to keep in the house. More substantial and less sweet than the average cookie, a biscotto or two can be a snack, a light first breakfast, a satisfying and not-cloying dessert. A few more reasons to love these crunchy biscuits: a texture that can stand up to coffee or tea dipping, just enough sweetness to satisfy those of us possessing a tooth or two that lean in that direction, and the versatility to accommodate all manner of flavor combinations and add-ins, from citrus zest and sweet spices to savory herbs and chocolate bits or nibs, pretty much any nut you can think of, and all manner of dried fruit. They’re also, of course, quite accepting of a swipe through melted chocolate, should your heart desire. Biscotti are a cookie family that can happily go in many different directions, is what I’m trying to say. And with a basic biscotti recipe you’re prepared for all sorts of tasty kitchen experiments.

David Tanis’ A Platter of Figs and Lidia Bastianich’s Lidia Cooks from the Heart of Italy both offer basic almond biscotti recipes that I like to use as a starting point. My foundation recipe is 2 cups flour (sometime all-purpose, often a blend of all-purpose with a whole-grain flour such as spelt, buckwheat or whole wheat), 1/2 cup sugar, 1/2 cup butter or a few tablespoons of olive oil, 2 eggs, 1.5 teaspoons baking powder, a dash of pure vanilla or almond extract, grated citrus zest, and a half-cup of nuts, usually almonds or hazelnuts.

Buckwheat is a noncereal grain that is rich in essential amino acids and contains more of the essential amino acid lysine than any of the cereal grains (e.g., wheat or spelt). It is also a good source of the bioflavonoid rutin, which has been shown to improve blood circulation and support healthy blood vessels. I’ve been a fan of buckwheat flour for a while — it’s gluten free so I often sub it for part of the wheat flour in sweet and savory baked goods to lower overall gluten content and boost flavor with its complex, toasty, slightly chocolatey nuttiness. Buckwheat flour gives these biscotti a dusky, almost cocoa hue and deep, rich flavor that’s a perfect foundation for the additions of pine-y fresh rosemary, chewy bites of sweet dried fig, bright lemon zest, and a hint of heat from freshly cracked black pepper.

Using buckwheat flour does result in a wetter, stickier biscotti dough than using 100% all-purpose flour. To account for this, rather than rolling the dough into a log and transferring the log to a baking sheet, as I would typically do with biscotti, I transfer the dough directly from the mixing bowl to a silpat-lined baking sheet and smooth it into a log shape with a silicone spatula. The finished biscotti are a bit more crumbly and delicate than biscotti made with 100% white flour, so be sure to store them in an airtight container so they don’t become soft. Those crumbs and ends that inevitably will be lost during the baking and slicing process? Save those too, they’re perfect crumbled over yogurt (or ice cream).

Rosemary fig buckwheat biscotti with lemon zest, black pepper and almonds
Makes about 3 dozen biscotti

1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour
1/2 cup buckwheat flour
1-1/2 teaspoons baking powder
pinch of kosher salt
1/2 cup granulated sugar
2 large eggs
1 tablespoon minced fresh rosemary
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest
a few grinds of black pepper
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

1/2 cup sliced almonds

1/2 cup chopped dried figs

Preheat oven to 325 F. Line 1 large or 2 small baking sheets with parchment or Silpat sheets.

Combine all-purpose and buckwheat flours, baking powder, and kosher salt in a bowl and stir to combine.

Using a hand-held or stand mixer, in a separate large bowl beat sugar and eggs until smooth and creamy. Beat in rosemary, lemon zest, and a few grinds of black pepper. Add flour mixture and mix on low speed until a crumbly dough forms. Drizzle in olive oil and beat on medium speed until dough forms a ball. Mix in almonds and figs on low speed or with a wooden spoon (I find this easier to do with a wooden spoon).

On prepared baking sheet(s) shape dough into three logs each about 2 inches wide, spacing the logs at least 2 inches apart. (The dough logs may appear a bit ragged but will smooth out when baked.) Bake until logs are puffed and golden brown, about 25 minutes. Remove from oven.

Cool logs slightly. Using a serrated bread knife, cut the logs crosswise into 1/2 inch slices. Place slices cut-side up on a baking sheet and bake until golden, about 5 minutes. Flip biscotti and bake 3 minutes more. Cool biscotti on a wire rack and store in an airtight container for up to 1 week.

White bean and vegetable soup with farfalline

Leave a comment February 1, 2016 urbankitchenapothecary

I’ve been known to select pasta solely based on the cuteness of their shape. Am I alone here? Such was the case with these adorable farfalline (as the name implies, little farfalle — bow-tie or butterfly pasta) that I picked up recently at Zabar’s. Inspired by my new pasta acquisition and with just-cooked Rancho Gordo Alubia Blanca beans (a small white heirloom bean) and rich, homemade chicken stock in the fridge, I decided on a soup — no surprise there since this time of year every day is soup day, in my opinion.

I sautéed my usual soup starters of onion, carrot, celery, and fennel in some olive oil, added garlic and chicken broth, cooked beans, a bit of fresh rosemary and some chile flakes. Simmered that for about half an hour before adding the farfalline, cooking until al dente, and then finished the soup with a big squeeze of lemon juice, chives, and a generous grating of Grana Padano. So simple and so good. My idea of healthy comfort food perfection on a cold winter’s night.

Good soup, particularly a broth-based soup, is all about starting with a great-tasting broth or stock. Whenever I roast a chicken (this is my is my go-to recipe, always and forever), I save the carcass and any leftover bones, vegetables, and herbs to make stock. Using a roasted chicken creates the richest and most flavorful stock you can imagine — I could just add a pinch of salt and sip on this and be very happy. I place the bones, vegetables and herbs (fresh thyme and sometimes rosemary) in an 8-quart soup pot and cover with 8 to 10 cups of water. Sometimes I’ll add a piece of kombu, which infuses the broth with minerals, particularly iodine, or immune-boosting herbs like dried burdock root, dried astragalus, or a few dried shiitake mushrooms. Other times I’ll just keep it super simple and throw in a bay leaf or two. After bringing the liquid to a boil I skim any foam from the surface and simmer gently, partially covered (to give the broth room to breathe) for 4 to 5 hours. Allowing for evaporation creates a more flavorful and concentrated broth, and if the liquid level gets too low I add a cup or two of boiling water. Then the broth is ready to strain and use in recipes, or freeze for future use.

White bean and vegetable soup with farfalline
Serves 4

extra virgin olive oil
1/2 onion, diced small (about 1 cup)
1 medium carrot, peeled and cut into quarter-moons (about 1/2 cup)
1 celery stalk, diced small (about 1/2 cup)
1/2 small fennel bulb, cored and diced small (about 1/2 cup) (save some fennel fronds for garnish)
1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced
6 cups chicken broth (see description above) or vegetable broth (or 6 cups water + a bouillon cube)
2 cups cooked white beans + 1/2 cup bean cooking liquid OR one 13.5-ounce can of white beans, rinsed and drained (such as cannellini or Great Northern)
1/2 teaspoon minced fresh rosemary
pinch of red chile flakes
1/2 cup farfalline (orzo and pastina are good substitutes)
kosher salt or Celtic sea salt
1/4 cup thinly sliced chives
juice of 1/2 lemon
freshly grated Italian hard cheese, such as Grana Padano, Pecorino, or Parmigiano, for serving
fennel fronds, to garnish each serving (optional)

Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil over medium heat in a heavy-bottomed pot (4 to 6 quart size). Add onion, carrot, celery, and fennel, and cook for 5 minutes until vegetables are starting to soften. Add garlic and stir for another minute.

Add broth, beans, bean-cooking liquid (if using), rosemary, chile flakes, and a pinch of salt (amount of salt needed will depend on seasoning of your broth and bean liquid). Simmer for 30 minutes, until vegetables are tender.

Add farfalline and simmer until al dente (6 to 8 minutes). Season with salt, if needed. Stir in chives and lemon juice. Garnish each serving with fennel fronds, if using, and serve with grated cheese.

Matcha-swirled lemon olive oil cake with matcha glaze

2 Comments January 26, 2016 urbankitchenapothecary

Something about hunkering down while more than 2 feet of snow fell on the city last weekend put me in a major baking mood. First there were almond biscotti, then spelt olive oil bread. Triple ginger cookies followed (cheat baking — my mom’s cookie dough was in the freezer). By Sunday night, with temperatures rising, snow melting into slush, and lakes forming at every street corner, I thought I was done. But early Monday morning, still in that thinly veiled state between sleeping and waking, visions of my favorite lemon olive oil cake appeared. And tell me, is it ever not a good time to make a lemon cake? Exactly.

I’ve been making this particular lemon cake for about a year, originally adapting it from an Ina Garten recipe that I discovered via Smitten Kitchen. It’s dense and substantial yet moist, bright with lemon zest, not too sweet, and pretty much my idea of the perfect cake. Always a crowd pleaser. I’ve made it with and without a glaze, with fresh and frozen blueberries stirred into the batter, vegan-ized it (to surprisingly delicious effect) on several occasions, and, my favorite rendition — a mid-summer’s version studded with juicy, local blueberries, red raspberries, and black raspberries. Eaten on my parents’ back porch on a hot July afternoon, and accompanied by melting orbs of vanilla ice cream, that’s a hard one to beat. But on this slushy Monday morning in January, my plans involved matcha. Specifically, infusing into all this lemon-y goodness a pale green, subtly herbal matcha swirl, a sprout-hued reminder that spring will, eventually, come back around.

Via The Google I discovered there was already a precedent here, so I decided to go for it, making a few more tweaks to my usual recipe to create a lemon-and-matcha-swirled loaf. I used a basic and relatively inexpensive “daily” matcha powder (found recently on the second floor at Fairway, in the natural foods section). It’s about half the price of ceremonial-grade matcha and, although you can make a cup of tea with it, it’s more suitable for cooking and baking than for drinking straight-up. If you have swankier ceremonial matcha powder I’m sure that would work just fine, and might even add a more distinguished flavor to your cake. The amount of matcha called for in the recipe below brings a light green color and subtle herbal flavor to the matcha swirls, which nicely balance out the tangy waves of lemon crumb. If you want to achieve a more pronounced matcha flavor you could try bumping up the amount to 1 or 1-1/2 teaspoons of matcha powder (and if you do, please drop a note to let me know how it turns out).

Matcha-swirled lemon olive oil cake with matcha glaze
Adapted from Ina Garten’s Lemon Yogurt Cake, Barefoot Contessa at Home
Makes one 8-1/2 x 4-1/4 x 2-1/2 inch loaf cake

I’ve made this cake with regular all-purpose flour and with gluten-free flour plus almond flour (see recipe for conversion amounts) and it turns out great both ways.

cake:
1-1/2 cups all-purpose flour (OR 3/4 cup gluten-free all-purpose flour plus 3/4 cup blanched almond flour [I used Bob’s Red Mill brand])
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
1 cup sugar
3 large eggs
1 cup plain yogurt (I use 2% Greek yogurt)
1/2 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/2 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 teaspoons grated lemon zest (about 1 large lemon)
3/4 teaspoon matcha powder
1 teaspoon poppy seeds (optional)

matcha glaze:
1/2 cup powdered sugar
1/2 teaspoon matcha powder
1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice

Heat oven to 350F with rack in middle.

Grease an 8-1/2 x 4-1/4 x 2-1/2 inch loaf pan. Line bottom of pan with parchment. Grease and flour pan.

In a medium bowl whisk together flour (or GF flours), baking powder and salt until thoroughly combined.

In a large bowl whisk together sugar, eggs, yogurt, olive oil, vanilla extract, and lemon zest until smooth. Gradually add flour mixture and stir again until smooth.

Pour approximately half of the batter into a separate bowl and whisk in matcha powder until well combined (the batter may appear dark, depending on your matcha, but the color will lighten after baking). Stir poppy seeds into the lemon batter, if using.

Pour about 1/2 of the lemon batter into the prepared pan, followed by half of the matcha batter. Repeat with remaining lemon and matcha batter. Use a butter knife to gently swirl the batters, but do not over mix as this will obliterate the marbled effect.

Bake until a cake tester inserted into the center of the cake comes out clean, 45 to 50 minutes. Rotate the pan halfway through to ensure even baking. Cool cake on a wire rack for 15 minutes, then carefully remove from pan and allow to cool completely before glazing.

To make the matcha glaze, whisk together powdered sugar, 1/2 teaspoon matcha powder, and lemon juice until smooth. Add a few more drops of lemon juice if need to achieve a pourable consistency (similar to honey). Drizzle over cooled cake and allow glaze to set before slicing.

Creamy Garlic and Herb Polenta with Pan-Roasted Vegetables and Ricotta Salata

Leave a comment January 20, 2016 urbankitchenapothecary

I’m not exactly sure how my current polenta kick got started, but I suspect that the seed was planted by something I saw on instagram. What else is new these days? A craving for a steaming bowl of silky polenta piled high with all manner of veg had taken root, and there was only one way to satisfy it (and get an arm workout at the same time). Boil some water, stream in a cup of coarse-ground cornmeal and stir, stir, stir.

The secret to achieving a creamy polenta is really more about using enough liquid than about adding an obscene amount of butter or cream. For a silky, spoonable polenta I use a liquid to cornmeal ratio of between 4:1 and 5:1 — whereas with a polenta that I’m going to chill and cut into pieces to pan-fry or bake I’ll use a ratio of about 3:1. The liquid can be water, or it can be a mixture of water and milk (typically 50/50), or broth or stock. Here I use a 4:1 ratio of water to cornmeal, and I finish the polenta with relatively small amounts of milk (1/2 cup) and butter (1 tablespoon) to make it extra luscious. You can forego the milk, in which case I would start with more water (4-1/2 cups rather than 4), and/or the butter if you like. If not including butter, try stirring in a spoonful of goat’s milk chèvre at the end to add flavor and creaminess with less fat content. 

I can attest to the fact that a bowl of creamy, garlicky, herb-accented polenta with pan-roasted broccoli, zucchini, and ‘shrooms, and garnished with scallions, olives, and ricotta salata makes a fine lunch or dinner. And as far as leftovers are concerned, this creamier, thinner version still solidifies nicely and is easily sliced after chilling. I love to top a square of leftover polenta with homemade marinara sauce, sliced kalamata olives, grated fontina or mozzarella, and grated Grana Padano and bake it for 10 minutes in the toaster oven at 400 F, then broil for 5 minutes more to brown the cheese. Or pan-crisp a square of polenta in a little olive oil and top it with greens and a fried or poached egg. In my book, the delicious options for leftover polenta are reason enough to make a pot of polenta in the first place. 

Creamy Garlic and Herb Polenta with Pan-Roasted Vegetables and Ricotta Salata
Serves 4

extra virgin olive oil
1 cup broccoli cut into bite-sized spears
pinch of red chile flakes
1 medium zucchini, diced (about 1.5 cups)
1 shallot, peeled and sliced
4 large cremini mushrooms, cleaned and diced (about 1 cup)
2 garlic cloves, minced

4 cups water or broth

1 cup coarse-ground cornmeal (aka polenta)
1 tablespoon butter
1/2 cup milk
2 tablespoons chopped fresh flat-leaf (Italian) parsley
2 tablespoons chopped fresh dill
2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro
kosher salt

add-ons:
sliced olives
grated ricotta salata or cheese of your choice
thinly sliced scallions
microgreens

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a heavy skillet (such as cast iron) over medium heat. Add broccoli, season with a pinch of salt and chile flakes, and cook until broccoli is browned and crispy, 5 to 7 minutes, stirring occasionally. Transfer to a bowl and set aside. Add zucchini and shallots and cook in the same manner, and repeat with mushrooms.

Heat 1 tablespoon olive oil in a medium soup pot over medium heat. Add garlic and cook until fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes. Add water and bring to a boil. Season with 2 teaspoons kosher salt. Add the polenta in a slow, steady stream, stirring constantly with a wooden spoon to prevent lumps from forming. Turn heat to low and cook polenta, stirring almost constantly, until thick and creamy, 10 to 15 minutes (timing depends on the grind of the cornmeal; the coarse-ground that I use typically cooks in 11 to 12 minutes).

Remove pot from heat and stir in butter, milk, and herbs. Taste and add salt, if needed.

Serve polenta immediately in warmed bowls. Top with vegetables and garnishes of your choice.

Ultimate Winter Salad with Apples, Quick-Pickled Fennel, Shallots + Dates, Za’atar-Toasted Almonds + Honey Cider Vinaigrette

Leave a comment January 14, 2016 urbankitchenapothecary

I’m a leafy green crunch fiend. I crave a salad a day and if I ignore this need for too long I freak out. Even in winter when my overall intake of raw veg takes a dip, I still need my daily fix but switch it up with more seasonal ingredients. Balanced combinations of flavors and textures are my thing: sweet and savory, salty, bitter, crisp, acidic, crunchy, and chewy. Everybody get in the bowl. In my winter salad playground this week I hit upon a new favorite that’s sure to be in heavy rotation around here during the colder months. It’s pretty much got it all — naturally sweet apples and dates, zingy quick-pickled fennel and shallots, crisp-tender leafy greens, refreshingly bitter radicchio and endive, and crunchy toasted almonds seasoned with za’atar – a fragrant and beguiling Middle Eastern spice blend that includes lemony sumac and sesame seeds. To highlight all this goodness I dressed the salad with a bright honey and apple cider vinegar dressing that’s basically my house vinaigrette. This is a bowl of green goodness to make for yourself or for a crowd – everyone loves it! This salad also likes to be transformed into a heartier one-bowl meal – just add a grilled protein of your choice.

The idea for quick-pickling shallots and dates is based on the spinach salad in Yotam Ottolenghi’s Jerusalem, a source for oh so many good things, in which dates and thinly sliced red onion are pickled in white wine vinegar before being added to the salad. I first tasted this salad during a yoga retreat a couple of years ago and the combination was an instant favorite. The dates plump up and take on a slight tang from the vinegar, and the red onion slivers become tender and pliable and lose just enough of their bite. I am not a fan of raw onion in most salads, but after marinating they become almost a different vegetable. I decided to try a similar technique with thinly sliced shallot and fennel bulb, marinating them in fruity raw apple cider vinegar with a pinch of salt.

Back to that house vinaigrette, which is super versatile and goes with everything. I do not remember the last time I purchased prepared salad dressing — maybe sometime during my undergrad years in the late ’90s when low-fat diets were still all the rage? The majority of bottled dressings contain low-quality oils (e.g. canola) and other questionable ingredients, and I don’t have time for that! With a bottle of good-tasting extra-virgin olive oil and your favorite vinegar (or citrus) on hand you are 90% of the way to a delicious homemade vinaigrette. I like to add raw honey and Dijon mustard for flavor and as emulsifying agents that create a creamier dressing compared with just oil and vinegar.

To emulsify the dressing just shake it up for minute or so in a small jar. Double (or triple) the recipe and you’ll have vinaigrette ready to go for a couple of days. If you really want to get crazy get an everlasting dressing jar going by preparing about 1/2 cup of vinaigrette and then adding to it as needed so the jar is never empty. (This is also a great use for almost-empty honey jars.) Having delicious homemade salad dressing on hand is the best strategy for eating more salads. Crunch away!

Ultimate Winter Salad with Apples, Quick-Pickled Fennel, Shallots + Dates, Za’atar-Toasted Almonds + Honey Cider Vinaigrette
Serves 4

for the salad:
2 tablespoons raw apple cider vinegar
1/4 fennel bulb, base/core removed, thinly sliced
1 small shallot, peeled and thinly sliced into rings about 1/8-inch thick
4 medjool dates, pitted and sliced into quarters
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
4 cups mixed leafy greens of your choice, sliced into 1/2-inch ribbons (I used red leaf and green leaf lettuces this time; escarole, arugula, baby kale and/or spinach would also be great)
1 cup radicchio leaves, thinly sliced
1 endive, thinly sliced (about 1/2 cup)
1/2 apple, halved, cored and thinly sliced (about 1 cup)

2 tablespoons thinly slices chives

for the za’atar-toasted almonds
1 teaspoon ghee, butter or olive oil
1/3 cup sliced, blanched almonds
1/2 teaspoon za’atar
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt

for the honey cider vinaigrette:
2 tablespoons raw apple cider vinegar
2 teaspoons raw honey
1 teaspoon dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon kosher salt
5 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

Pour 2 tablespoons apple cider vinegar into a medium bowl. Add fennel, shallot, and dates and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Toss gently and allow the mixture to marinate for 20 minutes. Drain off and discard any excess liquid.

While the shallots and fennel marinate make the almonds and vinaigrette. For the almonds, heat ghee in a heavy-bottomed skillet over medium heat. Add almonds and, stirring often, cook until golden brown, 5 to 8 minutes. (Watch closely as they can go from golden to burnt rather quickly!). Stir in za’atar and salt to evenly coat almonds. Transfer to a plate to cool.

In a small jar (half pint or so) or bowl combine 3 tablespoons cider vinegar, honey, dijon, and 1/2 teaspoon salt. Shake (or stir) vigorously to dissolve honey. Add olive oil and shake again until creamy and emulsified. Taste and add more salt if needed.

When ready to serve, in a large bowl combine marinated shallots, fennel, and dates, leafy greens, radicchio, endive, and apple slices. Add vinaigrette and toss to combine. Garnish with almonds and chives and serve immediately.

Curried Coconut + Butternut Squash Soup with Roasted Jalapeño + Maple and Cayenne Spiced Pecans

Leave a comment January 13, 2016 urbankitchenapothecary

My mom and I whipped up a pot of this soup for dinner one night when I was visiting my parents over the holidays. Paired with a big green salad and sourdough baguette it was the perfect light dinner for that between-holidays interlude when there are cakes and cookies and decadent leftovers calling from every direction and everyone’s pants tend to get a bit tight. I recreated the recipe back in the city after New Year’s while I was laid low with the Cold From Hell (guess I wasn’t following my own winter wellness guidelines!). I was craving a bowl of throat-soothing, curry-spiced, and ginger-laced comfort food, and this soup totally hit the spot. This is officially my new favorite way to use a butternut squash.

My mom aways roasts the squash before adding it to the soup pot, and I’m sold on this technique now, too. The roasted squash brings incredible richness and earthy sweetness to the finished soup, and creates a creamier texture, too. And, although roasting does add to the overall cooking time, it ultimately makes things easier since you don’t have to peel or dice raw squash. Simply slice the squash lengthwise, remove seeds, rub with olive oil and kosher salt and pop in the oven. Once tender, the flesh can be easily scooped from the skin and goes directly into the pot with the other ingredients.

The other key ingredient here is the roasted jalapeño. Roasting mellows the pepper’s bite so it adds a subtle, balanced undertone of heat that’s pleasant rather than tongue-scorching. I love to add curry powder for a balanced blend of aromatic spiciness, but if you’re not a curry lover feel free to leave it out — the soup will still be great.

A note on the maple and cayenne pecans — I’ve served these as cocktail snacks a couple of times recently and they’ve been nicknamed Crack Pecans. They have the whole sweet-salty-spicy-crispy thing going on and it’s hard to stop at just one…or one handful. So I’ll admit they are a bit dangerous to have around, but they do make a perfect nutty garnish for the creamy soup (not to mention a welcome cook’s snack). Hope you take the risk and try them!

Creamy Chickpea and Fennel Soup with Herbed Garlic + Parmigiano Sourdough Croutons

Leave a comment January 8, 2016 urbankitchenapothecary

It’s probably too soon to say for sure, but if the last 7 days are any indication 2016 seems to be the Year of Soup in my kitchen.
Or at least the January of Soup. My trusty 10-quart pot hasn’t had a single day off since the new year began, and I have no intention of stopping any time soon. Over the weekend a recipe for a simple pureed chickpea soup in Lidia Bastianich’s Commonsense Italian Cooking caught my eye, and I decided to try my own riff on it — adding shallots and fennel, fresh herbs, parmigiano rind (my trusty soup secret weapon), and topping each bowl with crunchy sourdough croutons tossed with oregano, thyme, grated parm and garlic powder before heading into the oven.

With the exception of the (optional) parm rind, the soup is free of dairy — its creamy texture is achieved by blending the chickpeas using an immersion blender or stand blender.  No cream or butter needed. (To make dairy-free croutons, substitute an equal amount of nutritional yeast for the grated cheese). The result is a soup that is hearty but not heavy, creamy, and earthy, with subtle herbal tones of fennel, thyme, and rosemary. A new classic.

Creamy Chickpea and Fennel Soup with Herbed Garlic + Parmigiano Sourdough Croutons
Serves 4

For the soup:
1 sprig fresh thyme
1 sprig fresh rosemary
1/2 bunch fresh parsley, leaves roughly chopped and stems reserved for bouquet garni
extra-virgin olive oil
1 onion, diced
1 shallot, diced
1/2 fennel bulb, diced
3 garlic cloves, sliced
3 cups cooked chickpeas
4 cups vegetable or chicken stock
1 dried bay leaf
2-inch piece of parmigiano or grano padano rind (optional)
kosher salt
pinch of red chile flakes
juice of 1 lemon
1/4 cup thinly sliced chives, to garnish

Tie together thyme, rosemary, and parsley stems with kitchen twine.

Heat 3 tablespoons olive oil in a large pot over medium heat. Add onion, shallot, and fennel, and cook until vegetables start to soften, about 5 minutes. Add garlic and stir around for another minute. Add chickpeas, stock, bay leaf, cheese rind, 1/2 teaspoon kosher salt, and pinch of red chile flakes. Simmer, partially covered, until vegetables are tender, 25 to 30 minutes.

Turn off heat and remove bouquet garni, bay leaf, and cheese rind. Puree soup using an immersion blender or in small batches in a stand blender. Add lemon juice and season to taste with salt if needed. Serve garnished with parsley, chives, a drizzle of olive oil, and croutons (recipe follows).

For the croutons:
2 cups day-old crusty sourdough bread, cut into 1/2-inch cubes
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons chopped fresh oregano
2 teaspoons chopped fresh thyme
1/2 teaspoon garlic powder
2 tablespoons grated parm, grana padano or pecorino
kosher salt, to taste
freshly ground black pepper, to taste

Preheat oven or toaster oven to 350F.

Combine all ingredients in a bowl and toss to evenly coat bread cubes with seasonings. Transfer to a baking sheet and bake until croutons are lightly browned, 10 to 15 minutes, stirring and rotating pan halfway through.

Cumin, Coriander + Fennel-Spiced Mung Bean Kitchari with Zucchini + Toasted Cashews

Leave a comment January 6, 2016 urbankitchenapothecary

A big pot of belly-warming kitchari is often the first meal I make upon returning from a trip or during times of illness or stress. Kitchari is an Ayurvedic porridge-like concoction — often referred to as Indian or Ayurvedic chicken soup for its health-enhancing, nourishing, and cleansing effects — that includes basmati rice and dal (hulled and split lentils), along with healing herbs, spices, and seasonal vegetables.
The variations are endless — there are as many potential recipes for kitchari as there are cooks!

By incorporating spices and vegetables with both warming and cooling effects, this kitchari combination becomes an ideal meal to help bring the system back into balance. For this batch, because we had just returned from a week of traveling and eating in restaurants day after day, I included cumin, coriander and fennel – a classic spice combination to soothe and balance digestion – along with immunity-boosting ginger, anti-inflammatory turmeric, and mineral-rich zucchini and cilantro. Coconut milk adds velvety texture and rich flavor, and garnishing each bowl with crunchy toasted cashews provides a perfect textural contrast to the creamy porridge.

Cumin, Coriander + Fennel-Spiced Mung Bean Kitchari with Zucchini + Toasted Cashews
The grocery stores in my area do not reliably carry mung dal, so I order mine from Banyan Botanicals.

3 tablespoons ghee, coconut oil or butter
1 teaspoon cumin seeds
1 teaspoon fennel seeds
1 medium onion, chopped (about 1 cup)
1/2 fennel bulb, stalks and core removed, chopped (about 1 cup)
1-inch piece fresh ginger, peeled and minced (about 2 tablespoons)
1 teaspoon ground turmeric
1 teaspoon ground coriander
1/2 cup split mung beans (mung dal), rinsed and drained
1/2 cup white basmati rice, rinsed and drained
1/2 cup coconut milk
4-1/2 cups water
1 medium zucchini, chopped (about 2 cups)
juice of 1 lime, plus lime wedges for serving
kosher salt

Garnishes:
1 cup roughly chopped cilantro
1/2 cup toasted cashews

Heat ghee or fat of choice in a large soup pot over medium heat. Add cumin and fennel seeds and cook until the seeds begin to pop, 1 to 2 minutes. Add onion, fennel, and ginger, and cook until vegetables begin to soften, about 5 minutes. Add turmeric and coriander and cook, stirring often, until the spices are fragrant, 1 to 2 minutes more.

Stir in mung beans and rice, stirring to coat with spices. Add coconut milk and water and bring mixture to a boil. Reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 30 minutes, partially covered. Keep an eye on the kitchari and add more water in 1/2 cup amounts if it looks dry. Stir in zucchini and simmer until tender, 5 to 10 minutes more. Remove pot from heat and add lime juice. Season with salt to taste.

Serve garnished with cilantro and cashews and accompanied by the extra lime wedges.

Braised Ruby Chard with Crispy Garam Masala Chickpeas

Leave a comment December 30, 2015 urbankitchenapothecary

I am writing this during that awkward time between Christmas and New Year’s, when waistbands tend to become a bit more snug than usual, there are more cookies than carrots on the kitchen counter, and vegetables of the dark leafy green variety are often neglected by even the more ardent kale-o-phile.
Which is unfortunate, because dark leafies are a most efficacious and reliable antidote to holiday carb and sugar indulgences. Rather than taking an all or nothing approach, I say enjoy sweet snacks and festive desserts in moderation, and simply remember to add in some leafy green love at every meal — both raw and cooked to take full advantage of their abundant vitamins and minerals — and prove that balance is in fact possible even during this most festive time of the year. A low-sugar green juice in the morning, big salad for lunch with apples or pears, nuts, and some cheese, sautéed escarole, kale, chard, or collards with dinner. Maybe all of the above if you want to really go crazy.

When I returned to the city from Christmas travels I immediately visited my favorite local market and stocked up on all the dark leafies my crisper drawer could hold. Chard is a house favorite, especially the beautiful ruby red variety with its crimson stalks and red-veined leaves. Braised until tender and velvety, chard has just enough bite to become a bright backdrop to skillet-crisped chickpeas spiked with sweet and spicy garam masala and smoky maple syrup. A perfect combination for a nutritious plant-based holiday side, a light, between-holidays lunch or dinner, or a satisfying and health-boosting January 1 reset to get your new year off to a great start.

Braised Ruby Chard with Crispy Garam Masala Chickpeas
Serves 4

Braised ruby chard:
olive oil
1 shallot, thinly sliced
1 garlic clove, thinly sliced
1 large bunch ruby, Swiss or rainbow chard, washed

kosher salt 

Heat 2 tablespoons olive oil in a large skillet or saucepan. Add shallot and garlic and cook over medium heat until softened and lightly golden, 5 to 8 minutes. Add chard a handful at a time, turning with tongs to wilt leaves before adding another handful. When all chard has been added to the pan, stir in a pinch of salt and add 1/4 cup water. Cover pan and reduce heat to low. Cook until chard is tender, 8 to 10 minutes. 

Crispy garam masala chickpeas:
2 cups freshly cooked chickpeas (or 1 can of chickpeas, drained and rinsed)
2 tablespoons olive oil

1 teaspoon garam masala

2 tablespoons maple syrup
kosher salt

Chopped toasted walnuts, as garnish (optional)

Place chickpeas on a kitchen towel or paper towel to remove excess moisture. Heat olive oil in a heavy-bottomed skillet (I like to use cast-iron for this) over medium-high heat. Add chickpeas and cook until starting to turn golden, about 5 minutes.

Add garam masala and a pinch of salt and cook until spices are fragrant, about 2 minutes more. Add maple syrup and, stirring constantly, cook until liquid has boiled off and chickpeas are crispy, another 2 minutes or so. Set aside.

To serve, transfer chard to individual plates or a serving bowl, drizzle with olive oil and top with crispy chickpeas and toasted walnuts.